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Nevado Huascaran – 5 to 21 Days

Nevado Huascaran – 5 to 21 Days

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Information

The mountain has two distinct summits, the higher being the south one (Huascarán Sur) with an elevation of 6,768 metres (22,205 ft). The north summit (Huascarán Norte) has an elevation of 6,654 meters (21,831 ft). The two summits are separated by a saddle (called ‘Garganta’). The core of Huascarán, like much of the Cordillera Blanca, consists of Cenozoic era granite.

Huascarán gives its name to Huascarán National Park which surrounds it, and is a popular location for trekking and mountaineering. The Huascarán summit is one of the points on the Earth’s surface farthest from the Earth’s center, closely behind the farthest point, Chimborazo in Ecuador.

The summit of Huascarán is the place on Earth with the smallest gravitational force.

Huascarán is normally climbed from the village of Musho to the west via a high camp in the col that separates the two summits, known as La Garganta. The ascent normally takes five to seven days, the main difficulties being the large crevasses that often block the route. The normal route is of moderate difficulty and rated between PD and AD (depending on the conditions of the mountain) according to the International French Adjectival System.

Highlights

  • Many climbers dream of reaching the high summit of 6,768 meters.
  • Huascarán offers multiple routes to arrive at the highest point in Peru.

Huascarán Norte

  • Normal route, climbed in 1908 and rated PD+/AD-
  • Northwest ridge (‘Italian’ route), rated ED1/ED2
  • Northwest face (‘Polish-Czech’ variant), rated ED1/ED2
  • North face (‘Paragot’ route), rated ED1
  • North face (‘Swiss’ route), rated ED2+
  • North face (‘Spanish’ route), rated ED2+

Huascarán Sur

  • West ridge (‘Shield’ route), rated D+
  • West ridge direct (‘Lomo fino’ route), rated TD-
  • Northeast ridge (‘Spanish’ route), rated TD+

Technical Data

  • Elevation South: 6,768m
  • Elevation North: 6,654m
  • Difficulty: Alpine – PD to AD – Difficult
  • Season: May to September

Duration

5-21 Days: An expedition that requires plenty of planning & preparation; a period of training and acclimatisation is also recommended for beginner to intermediate climbers.

 

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