Alpamayo (possibly from Quechua allpa earth, mayu river, “earth river”) or Shuyturaju (possibly from Ancash Quechua huytu, shuytu oblong, slim and long, Quechua rahu snow, ice, mountain covered in snow) is one of the most conspicuous peaks in the Cordillera Blanca of the Peruvian Andes. Alpamayo Creek originates northwest of it. The Alpamayo lies next to the slightly higher Quitaraju.
In July 1966, the German magazine “Alpinismus“, published a photo of Alpamayo taken by American photographer Leigh Ortenburger accompanied by an article on a survey among mountaineering experts, who chose Alpamayo as “The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World“.
Snow & Ice Climbing on Alpamayo. Discover Peru’s Cordillera Blanca as you trek, climb; and scramble over snow- and ice-covered moraine rock into the high altitudes of the Andes. Not for the faint of heart; this 19-day itinerary is for the somewhat experienced climber and altogether adventurous spirit. Thus; this program includes acclimatization hikes and a basic climbing course to practice the skills required to reach the summit of Alpamayo. It’s also an excellent trip for photography lovers — the views are simply breathtaking!
- Learn Snow & Ice climbing techniques on an included training course.
- Meet locals on your way through the peaks and valleys of the Cordillera Blanca.
- Discover stunning turquoise lakes hidden among snowy peaked mountains.
- Camp on icy mountaintops with unparalleled views of surrounding peaks.
- Reach the Alpamayo summit and rappel down to High Camp.
- Climbing duration to Summit: 5 hours
- Elevation: 5,947 m (19,511 ft)
- Knowledge of Rappeling
- Season: May – September
- Difficulty: Hard
9 – 14 Days: Trek and Climb. It is recommended to do a trek beginning in Vaquería which is a starting point of a 9 or 10 day Alpamayo circuit trek; and a climb route takes from 10 – 14 days to summit.