Artesonraju (6,025 m) is one of the approximately 50 peaks of the Cordillera Blanca known especially for its exceptional settings for mountaineering. Pyramidal and completely covered in ice and snow all year, this mountain of unequalled beauty is situated between the two gorges of the Santa Cruz Massif to the north and the Parón to the south. It’s frequently considered the iconic mountain in the Paramount pictures introduction.
From its high plateau alongside the Paron Gorge, it is 1,025 meters to the peak. It can usually be climbed in 8-12 hours round-trip. According to the International French Adjectival System (IFAS), it’s categorized as TD+: very difficult +, on the route of the South Ridge, and D: Difficult, via the “normal” route.
Artesonraju offers two primary ascent routes: The first runs through the North Edge, born in the Santa Cruz Gorge, while the second rises via the southeast face from Parón Lake, at the end of the gorge of the same name. This last route is very technically demanding, requiring advanced experience in ice climbing. You conquer a slope of 1,200 meters with a gradient that varies between 45 and 55 degrees, sometimes surpassing 60 degrees.
- Meet your team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m).
- Trekking to Artesonraju/Taullipampa Base Camp (4250 m).
- Climb to Artesonraju Moraine Camp (5000 m).
- Artesonraju Moraine Camp – Summit Artesonraju (6025 m).
- Elevation: 6025m
- Summit time: 8 – 12 Hours
- Season: May – September
- Difficulty: South Ridge – Alpine +TD – Very Difficult
- Difficulty: North Ridge – Alpine +D – Difficult
- Gradients: 45 – 65°
5 – 7 Days: Trek and summit Artesonraju in 5 days but allow yourself a couple of days acclimatisation beforehand.